Save space and money with this row saw conversion project

A good marker saw will enable you to cut quickly, accurately, and evenly. Just align the wood and lower the blade. Bzzzt. It's done but maybe you want to save cash or you don't have much space. Maybe you are just interested in the challenge. If so, there is a way to turn a circular saw you already have into a solid fixture.

Tying a skill saw to a wooden fixture is very useful for cutting into many similarly sized boards or when you are tired of putting the side winder down and picking it up between cuts. The fixture is also adjustable, so you can set its height for boards of different thicknesses. And, if you need to work elsewhere, just pop the saw up and free.

Of course, if you are a professional carpenter or someone planning a lot of ultra-precision cutting, you may just want to buy a factory-made saw. If not, we have a project for you: \

  • Note: The following steps will include some changes that will be important if you plan to further modify the fixture to increase the chamfering ability. These are clearly stated. However, if you just want to swing the saw up and down, you can ignore these changes and stick to the basic design.

Warning: This project involves a slight modification of the circular saw beyond its intended use by securing it in place and securing the blade guard where it cannot automatically cover the blade. Since the guard will no longer work as designed, it is important to ensure that the saw is properly seated and stands on its side when cutting (just like operating a regular circular saw). If you are not familiar with the safe operation of a circular saw or machete, do not proceed with this project.

statistical data

  • Time: 1-3 hours (manual), 2 days (total, including waiting time)
  • Cost: $ 20- $ 40
  • Difficulty: Hard


  • 1 (20 inches long) 1/2 x 4 aspen boards
  • 2 (3/4 "long) 5/16" bolts
  • 2 (5/16 inch) hex nuts
  • an plywood
  • 3/8 inch T50 staples
  • Glued to wood and metal
  • 2 (8 "long) fully threaded 3/8" carriage bolts
  • 2 (3/8 inch) hex nuts
  • 2 (3/8 inch) coupling nuts
  • 1 (3/8 inch) washing machine
  • 1 counter spindle
  • 2 inch screws
  • 1 inch copper nail (optional)


  • Circular saw
  • tape measure
  • square
  • Bar clip
  • Drill driver
  • 1/2 inch wood drill
  • 3/8 inch wood drill
  • 5/16 inch wood drill
  • 3/8 inch wood chisel
  • hammer
  • Nail gun
  • pencil
  • protect eyes
  • Handsaw (optional)
  • Viewfinder (optional)

Instructions for use

1. Cut out the poplar board. Measure and mark 20 inches from one end of the board. Use a square to draw a line on a straight line, and then use a chainsaw to cut along the line. Unplug the saw.

Tip: The half-inch poplar is thin enough to ensure that the saw does not stay too far on the wood that will eventually be cut with this DIY chop saw, but it is also strong enough to reliably hold the saw in place. You can expand the width to more than 3.5 inches, but I won't get narrower-you will see as many saws on top of the wood as possible, while leaving a fence around it.
Warning: You will use a circular saw as both a cutting tool and a guide tool. To avoid injury, unplug or remove the battery from the chainsaw after each step that involves cutting. This way, if you have to use it as a guide, you won't use it.

2. Arrange your sawing platform. After cutting poplar boards, you must figure out where to place the saw and how to arrange the platform for the saw. I'm using a rope-skil saw with a 7 1 / 4-inch blade, so while the theory behind the platform layout may be constant, actual measurement results may vary depending on the specific saw used.

  • Adjust the orientation of the poplar plank. You need to set it up in the same place where circular saws are usually used. For me, that was the right-hand edge of my work surface. There, it couldn't stop, and the blade fell to the side of the work area instead of passing through it. It is also near the power outlet. Align the board so that its front and back edges are flush with the front and back edges of the surface.
  • Roughly find the front locking mechanism. This will be where the saw platform is attached near the front edge of the work surface. You will want to make sure that when operating the saw, any part of the locking mechanism (one of the carriage bolts or the bar clamp) protruding above the platform is not obstructed. Once this is clear, mark the position of the lock on the board. I chose to center the bolt 2 inches from the front edge to prevent the poplar from cracking.
  • Trace the shoe print of a saw. Shoes are large flat parts of saws that can be placed on top of whatever you want to cut. Here, most of the content will be on the platform. Place the saw on the poplar with the saw blade on the right. Make sure no part of the saw interferes with the front lock, and leave an inch of space on the left side of the board to enclose the fence, and track the shoes with a pencil.

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